Sunday, June 27, 2010
Sunset on the Indian Ocean from a favorite restaurant!
Notice the dhou - an old style ship - off to the right as it crosses the path of the sun in the following pictures.
Economics and Eating
Perhaps the first shock upon arriving in Zanzibar was the money: the Tanzanian shilling is the currency and there are about 1400 of them to a US dollar!! So a bottle of coke or a 1.5 liter of water (which we bought everyday) was 1,500 to 2,000 shillings; an hour of internet 2,500 shillings; a typical dinner 10,000 to 20,000 shillings...it took a little while to get used to this!! The tour guide for our spice tour, who is in his mid-30's, told us that when he was a boy, the rate of exchange was 5 Tanzanian shillings to the dollar and now it is 1,400! Quite a devaluation... So while the numbers are huge, when you stop to figure it out, most things are pretty inexpensive comparatively.
As for the food, the first day we arrived we had a traditional Swahili meal – mostly rice and curry dishes (Zanzibari curry is a little different than Indian curry-not quite as spicy). Each morning for breakfast, there was fruit juice – the most intriguing and one of my favorites was an avocado/passion fruit combination which was really tasty and very unique; we had slices of papaya and other fresh fruit as well.
Because of the many influences on the island (Indian, Arabic and Swahili), the food is quite varied. The most common foods are “chips,” also known as french fries...it is difficult to get through a day without them because they are served with so many dishes. Rice is also used a lot; I ate vegetable curry for the majority of my lunches – mostly to get more vegetables in my diet and to avoid the fries, which were delicious, but not something I wanted to eat every day.
One evening part of our group had a meal in a home; it was a traditional meal that would be served during Ramadan, after an entire day of fasting (it was not Ramadan when we were there, but the food was what one would eat for the special meals of the year – much like our Thanksgiving feasts). We ate really well – everything was eaten with the right hand (no utensils), sitting on the floor. We had a delicious grilled kingfish, chicken with a curry sauce, naan and another type of bread, a potato filled with beef that was really tasty, several banana-type dishes and a couple other things unlike anything I have ever eaten. It was incredible!
As for the food, the first day we arrived we had a traditional Swahili meal – mostly rice and curry dishes (Zanzibari curry is a little different than Indian curry-not quite as spicy). Each morning for breakfast, there was fruit juice – the most intriguing and one of my favorites was an avocado/passion fruit combination which was really tasty and very unique; we had slices of papaya and other fresh fruit as well.
Because of the many influences on the island (Indian, Arabic and Swahili), the food is quite varied. The most common foods are “chips,” also known as french fries...it is difficult to get through a day without them because they are served with so many dishes. Rice is also used a lot; I ate vegetable curry for the majority of my lunches – mostly to get more vegetables in my diet and to avoid the fries, which were delicious, but not something I wanted to eat every day.
One evening part of our group had a meal in a home; it was a traditional meal that would be served during Ramadan, after an entire day of fasting (it was not Ramadan when we were there, but the food was what one would eat for the special meals of the year – much like our Thanksgiving feasts). We ate really well – everything was eaten with the right hand (no utensils), sitting on the floor. We had a delicious grilled kingfish, chicken with a curry sauce, naan and another type of bread, a potato filled with beef that was really tasty, several banana-type dishes and a couple other things unlike anything I have ever eaten. It was incredible!
Religious Tolerance and No Need for an Alarm..
Zanzibar is an island in the Indian Ocean, about 25 miles off the coast of Tanzania. The population of the island as a whole is just over a million people. Swahili is the official language; Arabic is also spoken and those involved with tourism speak English.
As we learned in our East African History class, the Arab influence goes back to 900 when trading between Zanzibar and Oman began; in 1697 the Omani flag was flown over the island of Zanzibar after the overthrow of the Portuguese. Thus, it is not difficult to understand why Zanzibar is 97% Muslim. In Zanzibar Town one hears the call to prayer from the 50 or so mosques five times each day. The first call was shortly after 5am so it served as a wake-up call for us, although I did manage to sleep through the earliest call as well as the bells of the Anglican Cathedral one morning! (I was really tired!!)
In addition to the many mosques, the religious diversity of Zanzibar Town is reflected in the presence of one Anglican Church; a Roman Catholic Church built by the French and modeled after the Catholic Cathedral in Marseille, France (the same architect designed both) and 4 Hindu temples. Also, we attended an evangelical indigenous church on the 2nd Sunday we were there (with some marvelous singing, I might add!). It should be noted that the Anglican church – and the hostel connected to it that we stayed in are on the grounds of the previous slave market in Zanzibar Town, so there are many visitors each day to see these sites from that perspective.
Speaking of slavery, it was a sobering reminder to learn about the slave trade from the perspective of the African culture: being there, seeing the sites and learning about that part of Africa's history. For many years, Zanzibar was the primary center for trading slaves. Slaves were traded right along with cloves and ivory. It was also eye-opening for me to hear of the slave trade with India, the Middle East and Europe, as most of my knowledge has been of the American slave trade. The depth of man's inhumanity to man is a heart-wrenching part of the history of Africa...
As we learned in our East African History class, the Arab influence goes back to 900 when trading between Zanzibar and Oman began; in 1697 the Omani flag was flown over the island of Zanzibar after the overthrow of the Portuguese. Thus, it is not difficult to understand why Zanzibar is 97% Muslim. In Zanzibar Town one hears the call to prayer from the 50 or so mosques five times each day. The first call was shortly after 5am so it served as a wake-up call for us, although I did manage to sleep through the earliest call as well as the bells of the Anglican Cathedral one morning! (I was really tired!!)
In addition to the many mosques, the religious diversity of Zanzibar Town is reflected in the presence of one Anglican Church; a Roman Catholic Church built by the French and modeled after the Catholic Cathedral in Marseille, France (the same architect designed both) and 4 Hindu temples. Also, we attended an evangelical indigenous church on the 2nd Sunday we were there (with some marvelous singing, I might add!). It should be noted that the Anglican church – and the hostel connected to it that we stayed in are on the grounds of the previous slave market in Zanzibar Town, so there are many visitors each day to see these sites from that perspective.
Speaking of slavery, it was a sobering reminder to learn about the slave trade from the perspective of the African culture: being there, seeing the sites and learning about that part of Africa's history. For many years, Zanzibar was the primary center for trading slaves. Slaves were traded right along with cloves and ivory. It was also eye-opening for me to hear of the slave trade with India, the Middle East and Europe, as most of my knowledge has been of the American slave trade. The depth of man's inhumanity to man is a heart-wrenching part of the history of Africa...
Houses of Worship in Zanzibar Town
The double steeples of the Catholic Church in Stone Town with one of the many minarets at the top of the mosque off to the right.
The top of one of the Hindu temples in Stone Town.
The Anglican Cathedral of Zanzibar on the site of the former slave market.
A reminder of the active slave trade in Zanzibar; these two sculptures are in the shadow of the Anglican Cathedral.
The top of one of the Hindu temples in Stone Town.
The Anglican Cathedral of Zanzibar on the site of the former slave market.
A reminder of the active slave trade in Zanzibar; these two sculptures are in the shadow of the Anglican Cathedral.
The "Obama Tree"
When people would ask us where we were from and when we said "Chicago," they immediately said "Obama." Barack Obama is a very well known and loved person in Zanzibar - no doubt throughout Africa as well. Well the "Obama Tree" is a tourist attraction in Stone Town. It was told to us that many people would gather and express support for Obama under this tree prior to the election.
You may not be able to see it clearly, but the red paint says, "Zanzibar 4 Obama."
You may not be able to see it clearly, but the red paint says, "Zanzibar 4 Obama."
The tourist part of Stone Town
Zanzibar is definitely a tourist destination. While there are numerous fancy resorts scattered around the island, there are some beautiful hotels on or near the waterfront in Zanzibar Town/Stone Town. Below is a sampling of the nicest hotels in town.
That is the Indian Ocean through the door!
That is the Indian Ocean through the door!
The streets (alleys) of Stone Town
Walking through Stone Town can be quite an experience. It is not unusual to share a narrow alley way with other walkers, a motorcycle and a bike. These pictures give you a feel for the non-tourist area of Stone Town where we regularly walked.
The doors of Stone Town
One of the first things readily noticed in Stone Town is the doors...many are ordinary but many are simply full of artistic detail and unique style. Here are a few examples..
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