Sunday, June 27, 2010
Sunset on the Indian Ocean from a favorite restaurant!
Notice the dhou - an old style ship - off to the right as it crosses the path of the sun in the following pictures.
Economics and Eating
Perhaps the first shock upon arriving in Zanzibar was the money: the Tanzanian shilling is the currency and there are about 1400 of them to a US dollar!! So a bottle of coke or a 1.5 liter of water (which we bought everyday) was 1,500 to 2,000 shillings; an hour of internet 2,500 shillings; a typical dinner 10,000 to 20,000 shillings...it took a little while to get used to this!! The tour guide for our spice tour, who is in his mid-30's, told us that when he was a boy, the rate of exchange was 5 Tanzanian shillings to the dollar and now it is 1,400! Quite a devaluation... So while the numbers are huge, when you stop to figure it out, most things are pretty inexpensive comparatively.
As for the food, the first day we arrived we had a traditional Swahili meal – mostly rice and curry dishes (Zanzibari curry is a little different than Indian curry-not quite as spicy). Each morning for breakfast, there was fruit juice – the most intriguing and one of my favorites was an avocado/passion fruit combination which was really tasty and very unique; we had slices of papaya and other fresh fruit as well.
Because of the many influences on the island (Indian, Arabic and Swahili), the food is quite varied. The most common foods are “chips,” also known as french fries...it is difficult to get through a day without them because they are served with so many dishes. Rice is also used a lot; I ate vegetable curry for the majority of my lunches – mostly to get more vegetables in my diet and to avoid the fries, which were delicious, but not something I wanted to eat every day.
One evening part of our group had a meal in a home; it was a traditional meal that would be served during Ramadan, after an entire day of fasting (it was not Ramadan when we were there, but the food was what one would eat for the special meals of the year – much like our Thanksgiving feasts). We ate really well – everything was eaten with the right hand (no utensils), sitting on the floor. We had a delicious grilled kingfish, chicken with a curry sauce, naan and another type of bread, a potato filled with beef that was really tasty, several banana-type dishes and a couple other things unlike anything I have ever eaten. It was incredible!
As for the food, the first day we arrived we had a traditional Swahili meal – mostly rice and curry dishes (Zanzibari curry is a little different than Indian curry-not quite as spicy). Each morning for breakfast, there was fruit juice – the most intriguing and one of my favorites was an avocado/passion fruit combination which was really tasty and very unique; we had slices of papaya and other fresh fruit as well.
Because of the many influences on the island (Indian, Arabic and Swahili), the food is quite varied. The most common foods are “chips,” also known as french fries...it is difficult to get through a day without them because they are served with so many dishes. Rice is also used a lot; I ate vegetable curry for the majority of my lunches – mostly to get more vegetables in my diet and to avoid the fries, which were delicious, but not something I wanted to eat every day.
One evening part of our group had a meal in a home; it was a traditional meal that would be served during Ramadan, after an entire day of fasting (it was not Ramadan when we were there, but the food was what one would eat for the special meals of the year – much like our Thanksgiving feasts). We ate really well – everything was eaten with the right hand (no utensils), sitting on the floor. We had a delicious grilled kingfish, chicken with a curry sauce, naan and another type of bread, a potato filled with beef that was really tasty, several banana-type dishes and a couple other things unlike anything I have ever eaten. It was incredible!
Religious Tolerance and No Need for an Alarm..
Zanzibar is an island in the Indian Ocean, about 25 miles off the coast of Tanzania. The population of the island as a whole is just over a million people. Swahili is the official language; Arabic is also spoken and those involved with tourism speak English.
As we learned in our East African History class, the Arab influence goes back to 900 when trading between Zanzibar and Oman began; in 1697 the Omani flag was flown over the island of Zanzibar after the overthrow of the Portuguese. Thus, it is not difficult to understand why Zanzibar is 97% Muslim. In Zanzibar Town one hears the call to prayer from the 50 or so mosques five times each day. The first call was shortly after 5am so it served as a wake-up call for us, although I did manage to sleep through the earliest call as well as the bells of the Anglican Cathedral one morning! (I was really tired!!)
In addition to the many mosques, the religious diversity of Zanzibar Town is reflected in the presence of one Anglican Church; a Roman Catholic Church built by the French and modeled after the Catholic Cathedral in Marseille, France (the same architect designed both) and 4 Hindu temples. Also, we attended an evangelical indigenous church on the 2nd Sunday we were there (with some marvelous singing, I might add!). It should be noted that the Anglican church – and the hostel connected to it that we stayed in are on the grounds of the previous slave market in Zanzibar Town, so there are many visitors each day to see these sites from that perspective.
Speaking of slavery, it was a sobering reminder to learn about the slave trade from the perspective of the African culture: being there, seeing the sites and learning about that part of Africa's history. For many years, Zanzibar was the primary center for trading slaves. Slaves were traded right along with cloves and ivory. It was also eye-opening for me to hear of the slave trade with India, the Middle East and Europe, as most of my knowledge has been of the American slave trade. The depth of man's inhumanity to man is a heart-wrenching part of the history of Africa...
As we learned in our East African History class, the Arab influence goes back to 900 when trading between Zanzibar and Oman began; in 1697 the Omani flag was flown over the island of Zanzibar after the overthrow of the Portuguese. Thus, it is not difficult to understand why Zanzibar is 97% Muslim. In Zanzibar Town one hears the call to prayer from the 50 or so mosques five times each day. The first call was shortly after 5am so it served as a wake-up call for us, although I did manage to sleep through the earliest call as well as the bells of the Anglican Cathedral one morning! (I was really tired!!)
In addition to the many mosques, the religious diversity of Zanzibar Town is reflected in the presence of one Anglican Church; a Roman Catholic Church built by the French and modeled after the Catholic Cathedral in Marseille, France (the same architect designed both) and 4 Hindu temples. Also, we attended an evangelical indigenous church on the 2nd Sunday we were there (with some marvelous singing, I might add!). It should be noted that the Anglican church – and the hostel connected to it that we stayed in are on the grounds of the previous slave market in Zanzibar Town, so there are many visitors each day to see these sites from that perspective.
Speaking of slavery, it was a sobering reminder to learn about the slave trade from the perspective of the African culture: being there, seeing the sites and learning about that part of Africa's history. For many years, Zanzibar was the primary center for trading slaves. Slaves were traded right along with cloves and ivory. It was also eye-opening for me to hear of the slave trade with India, the Middle East and Europe, as most of my knowledge has been of the American slave trade. The depth of man's inhumanity to man is a heart-wrenching part of the history of Africa...
Houses of Worship in Zanzibar Town
The double steeples of the Catholic Church in Stone Town with one of the many minarets at the top of the mosque off to the right.
The top of one of the Hindu temples in Stone Town.
The Anglican Cathedral of Zanzibar on the site of the former slave market.
A reminder of the active slave trade in Zanzibar; these two sculptures are in the shadow of the Anglican Cathedral.
The top of one of the Hindu temples in Stone Town.
The Anglican Cathedral of Zanzibar on the site of the former slave market.
A reminder of the active slave trade in Zanzibar; these two sculptures are in the shadow of the Anglican Cathedral.
The "Obama Tree"
When people would ask us where we were from and when we said "Chicago," they immediately said "Obama." Barack Obama is a very well known and loved person in Zanzibar - no doubt throughout Africa as well. Well the "Obama Tree" is a tourist attraction in Stone Town. It was told to us that many people would gather and express support for Obama under this tree prior to the election.
You may not be able to see it clearly, but the red paint says, "Zanzibar 4 Obama."
You may not be able to see it clearly, but the red paint says, "Zanzibar 4 Obama."
The tourist part of Stone Town
Zanzibar is definitely a tourist destination. While there are numerous fancy resorts scattered around the island, there are some beautiful hotels on or near the waterfront in Zanzibar Town/Stone Town. Below is a sampling of the nicest hotels in town.
That is the Indian Ocean through the door!
That is the Indian Ocean through the door!
The streets (alleys) of Stone Town
Walking through Stone Town can be quite an experience. It is not unusual to share a narrow alley way with other walkers, a motorcycle and a bike. These pictures give you a feel for the non-tourist area of Stone Town where we regularly walked.
The doors of Stone Town
One of the first things readily noticed in Stone Town is the doors...many are ordinary but many are simply full of artistic detail and unique style. Here are a few examples..
Friday, May 21, 2010
Zanzibar: Arrival and First Impressions
After two overnight flights (Chicago to London; 9 hours hanging out in Heathrow airport; then London to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania), our descent into Dar was one of the first noticeable features: descending from extreme cold temperatures of the upper atmosphere into lower altitude, the humidity was so intense that it was not possible to even see out of the windows because of the extreme condensation. Once on the ground, walking out of the airplane into the terminal was a shock: the new reality of heat and humidity hit me in the face (and lungs) immediately! We had to wait for an hour or so to catch our 15 minute flight to Zanzibar – on a small plane! Once on the island of Zanzibar our group was met; our luggage was quickly loaded and before we knew it, we were in Zanzibar Town, and more specifically, the old quarter, known as Stone Town. Richard Burton, an early British explorer described Stone Town in 1857, “The streets are, as they should be under such a sky, deep and winding alleys, hardly twenty-feet broad, and travelers compare them to the threads of a tangled skein.”
After getting to our hostel, adjacent to and operated by the staff of the Anglican Church/Diocese, we settled into our rooms, had a traditional Swahili lunch and took a walking tour of Stone Town to get our bearings (and to keep us awake to help with our jet lag). We learned that there are just a couple main streets (these are paved and form a somewhat incomplete triangle around Stone Town), so if we get lost and can get to one of these we could find our way home (a theory which has already been proven in my case...). The most beautiful part of Stone Town is the ocean front – the Indian Ocean, that is...the water is beautiful, there are some beautiful gardens, the old Sultan's Palace and some other historical buildings. Sunsets on the Indian Ocean are really gorgeous! Getting to the ocean is the challenge! There is a maze of narrow alley-ways which are shared by pedestrians, motorcycles and bikes. Only slightly larger alleys/”streets” also include cars. Some of these alley-ways are paved, though small rocks and sand are everywhere so you have to watch where you are walking.
As the term, Stone Town suggests, many of the buildings are two or three stories and built of stone; there are several distinct kinds of doors: rounded arches and doors with more ornate wooden carving although there are a lot of ordinary looking doors as well. Many buildings have wide double doors that open to reveal endless numbers of shops with everyone calling after you to come in and take a look. These are in addition to the large market off of one of the main streets where you can get every kind of fish, meat, poultry, vegetable, fruit, clothing and many other things.
It is not difficult to realize I am in a predominantly Muslim culture: many women are fully covered in black, polyester-like burkas; some with scarves over their heads, some women with just tiny slits to see, even young girls wear veils. Apparently there has been a move toward a little more decorative aspect in recent years, as I often see women with brightly-colored scarves on their heads and some with overlays of bright colors, even some with sparkly trim. The non-Muslim women wear more African-like clothing. It is a little difficult to discern at times, as there is a wide continuum of more strict to less strict followers of Islam and the Africans, but regardless, it is a colorful and fascinating place to people-watch. Some men don traditional Muslim clothing, but more often they are dressed more casually, even wearing jeans. The disconnect between the gender's clothing is notable, especially when one considers the heat and humidity. It sparks my righteous anger to see the women having to wear, what I consider, oppressive clothing, but that is a subject for another time...
After getting to our hostel, adjacent to and operated by the staff of the Anglican Church/Diocese, we settled into our rooms, had a traditional Swahili lunch and took a walking tour of Stone Town to get our bearings (and to keep us awake to help with our jet lag). We learned that there are just a couple main streets (these are paved and form a somewhat incomplete triangle around Stone Town), so if we get lost and can get to one of these we could find our way home (a theory which has already been proven in my case...). The most beautiful part of Stone Town is the ocean front – the Indian Ocean, that is...the water is beautiful, there are some beautiful gardens, the old Sultan's Palace and some other historical buildings. Sunsets on the Indian Ocean are really gorgeous! Getting to the ocean is the challenge! There is a maze of narrow alley-ways which are shared by pedestrians, motorcycles and bikes. Only slightly larger alleys/”streets” also include cars. Some of these alley-ways are paved, though small rocks and sand are everywhere so you have to watch where you are walking.
As the term, Stone Town suggests, many of the buildings are two or three stories and built of stone; there are several distinct kinds of doors: rounded arches and doors with more ornate wooden carving although there are a lot of ordinary looking doors as well. Many buildings have wide double doors that open to reveal endless numbers of shops with everyone calling after you to come in and take a look. These are in addition to the large market off of one of the main streets where you can get every kind of fish, meat, poultry, vegetable, fruit, clothing and many other things.
It is not difficult to realize I am in a predominantly Muslim culture: many women are fully covered in black, polyester-like burkas; some with scarves over their heads, some women with just tiny slits to see, even young girls wear veils. Apparently there has been a move toward a little more decorative aspect in recent years, as I often see women with brightly-colored scarves on their heads and some with overlays of bright colors, even some with sparkly trim. The non-Muslim women wear more African-like clothing. It is a little difficult to discern at times, as there is a wide continuum of more strict to less strict followers of Islam and the Africans, but regardless, it is a colorful and fascinating place to people-watch. Some men don traditional Muslim clothing, but more often they are dressed more casually, even wearing jeans. The disconnect between the gender's clothing is notable, especially when one considers the heat and humidity. It sparks my righteous anger to see the women having to wear, what I consider, oppressive clothing, but that is a subject for another time...
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Vancouver, here I come...
The pictures that follow are from a trip that I took to Vancouver, Canada in August, 2009. I flew to Seattle, took the bus to Vancouver, spent a week with friends in the Vancouver area, including a trip to Whistler, then drove with my friends back to Illinois, via Vancouver Island, the Oregon coast and across the plains.. The following pictures are in reverse order from my experience, but they are pretty nonetheless... I post them now as I think about the upcoming Olympic Games in Vancouver..it is pretty cool to think that those mountains around Whistler that I bravely took the cable car up to will soon be populated with some of the best winter athletes in the world!
Whistler Mountain
A view of Whistler Mountain area
Traveling between the mountains on the cable car...I can't believe I did this!
Coming back down the mountain on the cable car....
Traveling between the mountains on the cable car...I can't believe I did this!
Coming back down the mountain on the cable car....
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